The Correct Order to Apply Skincare

Application order is the most underrated factor in skincare effectiveness. The same products applied in a different sequence can produce noticeably different results. The principle is straightforward — thinnest to thickest, water before oil, actives before moisturizers — but the exceptions and timing details matter as much as the rule. This guide lays out the correct sequence for every product type, with the reasoning behind each placement.

The Fundamental Rule: Thin to Thick

Skincare products are formulated with different viscosities for a reason. Watery serums are designed to penetrate. Thick creams are designed to sit on the surface and seal. If you apply cream first, the serum sits on top of the cream layer instead of reaching your skin. The active ingredients never arrive where they need to be.

The rule: apply products from thinnest consistency to thickest. Water-based toners first. Then lightweight serums. Then heavier serums or treatments. Then moisturizer. Then oil (if using). Then SPF in the morning. Each layer absorbs partially before the next is applied, building a structured system on your skin.

Morning Routine: Layer by Layer

Step 1: Cleanser

A gentle cleanser removes overnight oil, dead cells, and any residue from evening products. Splash with lukewarm water first, apply cleanser, massage for 30 seconds, rinse. Morning cleansing does not need to be aggressive — you are not removing makeup or SPF. A mild gel or cream cleanser is sufficient. Some people with dry skin skip morning cleansing and use water only. Fine.

Step 2: Toner (Optional)

If using a hydrating toner, apply to still-damp skin. Pat gently — do not rub. The residual moisture plus the toner preps your skin to absorb the next layer more effectively. Skip this step entirely if your cleanser does not leave your skin feeling tight or stripped. Not everyone needs a toner.

Step 3: Antioxidant Serum (Vitamin C)

Vitamin C works best in the morning because it provides antioxidant protection against UV-generated free radicals throughout the day. Apply 3-4 drops to face and neck. Pat gently until absorbed — do not rub aggressively. Wait 60 seconds before the next step. The serum should feel tacky but not wet before proceeding.

Step 4: Hydrating Serum (If Needed)

If you use a separate hydrating serum (hyaluronic acid), apply it after your Vitamin C has absorbed. The HA pulls water into the skin layers that the Vitamin C has already penetrated. Two different functions, no interaction conflicts. Apply to still-slightly-damp skin from the previous step if possible.

Step 5: Eye Cream (If Using)

Eye creams go before moisturizer because the delicate skin around eyes benefits from direct contact with the treatment formula. Use your ring finger (lightest pressure) to tap a small amount around the orbital bone. Do not pull or drag the skin. If you do not use an eye cream, your regular moisturizer works fine around the eyes.

Step 6: Moisturizer

Seals in the serums and provides its own hydration and barrier protection. The moisturizer is the cap on the system — everything underneath it is now locked in. Apply a nickel-sized amount to face and neck. Wait 60 seconds for absorption.

Step 7: Sunscreen (Non-Negotiable)

SPF is always the last step in a morning routine. Two reasons: SPF needs to form a uniform film on the skin surface to work, and anything applied over it disrupts that film. Apply generously — most people underapply by 50%. Use a full two-finger amount (index and middle finger, a strip along each). Wait 2-3 minutes before makeup or sun exposure.

Evening Routine: Layer by Layer

Step 1: First Cleanse (Oil or Balm)

The oil cleanse removes SPF, makeup, and environmental debris from the day. Oil dissolves oil — a water-based cleanser alone cannot fully remove silicone-based SPF or long-wear makeup. Massage the oil or balm onto dry skin for 60 seconds, then emulsify with water and rinse. The ELEMIS Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm turns this functional step into a spa-like ritual.

Step 2: Second Cleanse (Gel or Cream)

The water-based cleanser removes residue from the first cleanse and any remaining impurities. This double-cleanse method is the most thorough way to start your evening routine with thoroughly clean skin. If you did not wear SPF or makeup during the day, one cleanse is sufficient.

Step 3: Exfoliant (2-3 Times Per Week)

Chemical exfoliants (AHA, BHA, PHA) go on clean, dry skin. They need direct contact with the skin surface and a specific pH range to work. Apply, then wait 10-15 minutes before layering anything else. This waiting period lets the acid do its work without being buffered by subsequent products. On non-exfoliant nights, skip this step entirely.

Step 4: Treatment Serum (Retinol or Active)

Retinol, retinaldehyde, peptide serums, or targeted treatments go after exfoliants (or directly after cleansing on non-exfoliant nights). Apply a pea-sized amount to dry skin. Avoid the eye area unless the product is formulated for it. Wait 60 seconds for absorption.

Step 5: Hydrating Serum

If using a separate hydrating serum (hyaluronic acid, Vichy Mineral 89), apply after your treatment has absorbed. The hydration supports the active and prevents overnight dryness. Apply to slightly damp skin if possible — spritz with a facial mist before applying if your face has dried completely.

Step 6: Eye Cream

Same technique as morning. Ring finger, tap gently. Evening eye creams can be richer than morning versions since they do not need to sit under SPF or makeup.

Step 7: Night Cream or Moisturizer

Evening moisturizer can be richer than your morning version — there is no SPF layer needed on top and no concern about a dewy finish looking oily in daylight. Ceramide-rich creams, peptide moisturizers, and sleeping masks all fit here.

Step 8: Facial Oil (Optional)

If you use a facial oil (marula, rosehip, argan, squalane), it goes last. Oils are occlusive — they seal everything underneath. Applying oil before moisturizer prevents the moisturizer from absorbing. Two to three drops pressed into the skin over your moisturizer creates a nourishing seal for overnight recovery.

When to Break the Rules

• Oil-based Vitamin C: Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is oil-soluble and goes in the oil step, not the serum step. Product consistency dictates placement, not the active ingredient.
• Prescription tretinoin: Some dermatologists recommend applying tretinoin after moisturizer (not before) to reduce irritation. The moisturizer layer buffers penetration. Follow your dermatologist's instructions over general layering rules.
• Niacinamide + Vitamin C: The old advice to never combine them is outdated. Modern formulations of both are pH-adjusted to work together. Layer in either order. If one formula pills, switch the order.
• Pilling products: If products ball up on your skin, the layers are not absorbing before the next is applied. Wait longer between steps, use less product, or switch the order. Silicone-based products often pill under water-based products — reverse the order if this happens.

What Happens When Products Pill

Pilling — when products ball up on the skin instead of absorbing — is the most common sign of a layering problem. It happens when a water-based product is applied over a silicone-based product, when too much product is used in a single layer, or when layers are applied before the previous one has absorbed.

The fix is almost always one of three adjustments. First, wait longer between steps — 60 seconds minimum, 90 seconds if the product is thick. Second, use less product. Most people over-apply serums and moisturizers by 30-50%. A pea-sized amount of moisturizer covers the entire face when distributed with light pressing motions. Third, check the base of your products. If your serum is water-based and your moisturizer is silicone-heavy (look for dimethicone in the first 5 ingredients), the water layer cannot bond to the silicone layer and balls up on contact. Switch to a water-based moisturizer or reverse the order.

Frequently Asked Questions